Yesterday I was in the kitchen with Sir George while AGA was busy checking Ebay (of which more in a later post).
‘Sir George’, I said decidedly, ‘I am going to make madeleines for today’s afternoon tea’.
Sir George scowled a bit, having never forgiven Louis XV for that little incident at Fontenoy however I was in no mood for his carry-on and I needed to get cracking if I were to finish in time . . .
I don’t know if I mentioned it before but I always cook with a composer. Usually it is my dear old friend Georg Friedrich Handel. He wrote such rollicking good music to cook by and indeed many is the time I have joined in by way of the vigorous thumping of a wooden spoon in a mixing bowl.
Occasionally it is the likes of Rameau, Boyce, CPEBach (who despite looking like a Teutonic old frump in his portraits wrote some pretty cracking music in his day) or Lully who drop by to assist.
Today however the honours were going to Claudio Monteverdi. He had been in the kitchen on Saturday helping me to make a raspberry and apple pie and so it was a pleasure to ask him to help with the Madeleines. Of course we had the Vespers of the Blessed Virgin Mary. A favourite of mine and we sang loudly as we whipped up the mixture.
This is how you make them.
Preheat the oven to about 180C. Get a nice big orange and zest it. Put the zest on a chopping board and chop it fairly finely.
Next take 120g of flour and mix it in a bowl with a good teaspoonful of baking powder. Use a fork so that it is well combined. In another bowl put 120g of Castor sugar and four eggs. Get out your trusty mixer and mix it for a good three minutes so that the mixture gains in volume. Now add to it 120g of butter that is at room temperature. Mix it for another minute. The mixture will lose some of its volume but fear not for that is supposed to happen. Now add the zest and a few drops of vanilla essence. Mix it some more.
Now add the flour mixture and fold it in gently, lovingly, amorously, even languidly! using a big metal spoon while thinking pleasant thoughts, until no dry mixture remains. Now let it sit in its bowl for five minutes or so while you put the kettle on.
(At that very moment Monteverdi and his choir let rip with a massive air splitting Gloria Patri that I was able to join in with gusto. Thanks to the wondrous CD player’s controls we actually sang this six or seven times over until AGA asked that we stop.)
The mixture is now ready for the next stage. Dip your finger in and have a taste. ‘Lecke!’ as Handel might have said: ‘Tasty!’
Have ready a well buttered Madeleine pan. Make sure that all the grooves in the molds are buttered. Place a spoonful of the mixture into each mold. Be careful not to fill the mold to the brim. Leave a little of the mold pattern showing. Like this:
If you forget you will end up with some rather obese Madeleines that roll all over the place, enough to give poor old Proust an attack of the vapours. Actually they spread out of their mould, are difficult to remove when cooked and look untidy too – although they taste just as good. Actually my first batch went this way so I can speak from experience on all counts . . .
Anyway…
Now into the oven with them!
Make a cup of tea and sit near the oven to watch the process. Just like this:
Madeleines are dainty creatures, a few seconds over the limit and they burn. Ten minutes ought to do it. Luckily Monteverdi and co were now singing some rousing, melodic Magnificats and I drank tea in a leisurely way, joining in every now and again on the sicut erats. As soon as the Madeleines take on a light golden colour, open the oven door and skewer the nearest one. If the skewer comes out clean they are ready. These are ready:

Take out the pan and sit it on a conveniently situated trivet and lay a clean teatowel over it. Leave for a few minutes then bang the pan mightily on the table top until the contents have come out. Never try and poke them out with a knife as this would damage them. They should look plump and revealing. Golden on top and pale underneath. . .
Eat one.
Does it taste good?
Eat another.
Don’t worry that now you only have ten (or perhaps nine) left because although this mixture is supposed to be for 12 Madeleines, for some reason it always makes 24 so there is a perfect justification in judicious eating of the finished product.
At this point AGA entered and tried one. ‘Freakin’ delicious’ was his summing up. A comment with which I thoroughly agreed. I don’t like to brag but if Madame du Pompadour had walked through the door at that very moment and gasped ‘I need a madeleine!’, she was have been awe struck by my culinary prowess and probably asked me to become her pastry chef (or at least I like to think so).
Needless to say that our guests ate their fill and now there are but two left although soon even they will be but a pleasant scented memory…
Here they are in their heyday. Sitting expectantly in their tin:

By the way, you don’t have to flavour the Madeleines with orange zest. You can use lemon or no zest at all but there is one important golden rule and that is that Madeleines must be eaten on the day they are made. Leave them any longer and they go stale, taking on the character of the Mademoiselle from Armentieres…
Another by the way: I always used the best, salted butter in my baking and on my toast. It is a matter of taste I suppose but unsalted butter just doesn’t do it for me…
Perhaps this rambling carry-on has made you think that you might like to make some Madeleines yourself! If it has then bon chance and bon appetite! You won’t regret it.
